Just 8km south-west of where I’m sitting is the Erren River (二仁溪) that separates Tainan City and Kaohsiung City yet it’s a boundary I’ve rarely crossed, preferring to stick north of the Erren and on familiar ground. Sunday’s ride would not just take me over it, but well beyond and into uncharted territory for me and my bike.

The year started with a Wednesday night, New Years Day ride over to the coast then up to Qigu, across to Jiali and back home. It was a mind-clearing exercise more than anything else and a time to reflect. Once my mind was suitably adjusted it became dull and I got bored, as with darkness you have no scenery to look at and I just wanted to get the ride finished. It was my 6th ride in 6 weeks over the Zengwen River and the plains north of Tainan City Centre heading towards Chiayi. The roads felt awfully familiar and I knew the weekend ride had to be somewhere else.

In the 4 years I’ve lived in Tainan I’ve probably crossed the Erren River on my bike about 6 times. The sticking point has always been PH 1 aka Provincial Highway 1 which almost certainly has to be used when riding south and it’s a horrible road.

My plan for Sunday was to do some advance research on scenic spots to the south, in Kaohsiung City, I mean the outer districts of the city and it’s satellite towns. I knew about Guanyinshan 36km south-east, Agongdian Reservoir south-east and Tianliao Moon World also south-east! I initially wanted to combine them but went ahead and asked around for information on Saturday. “Agongdian Reservoir has a cycle path around it” was piece of advice 1 and second “You can go to Wushanding Mud Volcanoes”, wait…what? A quick Google later and I soon had a route planned or so I thought…

A few hours later and I was still awake at 1am with something on my mind… ‘What does that 24-hour restaurant near the 7 Eleven serve?’. I was referring to a restaurant near to the junction with PH39 going out on the 182. Google Translate, fill in gaps in my Chinese knowledge, a few eureka moments and eventually I fall asleep gone 4am…

I needn’t have worried about missing my alarm, jumping out of bed before it went off at 7am and I set off about 7:35am on a foggy morning aiming for Agongdian Reservoir and the Wushanding Mud Volcanoes.

More bizarre than me getting out of bed enthusiastically at 7am on a Sunday was the concept of me eating breakfast. This has become a strange and unusual word, not usually in either my lexicon nor something that is a part of my everyday routine…

I always feel a bit awkward walking into a restaurant in Taiwan that has a fully Chinese but gradually that feeling is wearing off. I ordered 鱸魚粥 or sea bass porridge for those unable to read Chinese. It cost NT$85 (about £2) and it was delicious and absolutely full of seabass, a very good start to the day. Just the thing needed!

For those interested in the restaurant should Google 東品鮮魚湯仁德店.

I got going at 8:15am and headed down the 39 past the HSR, over the Erren and into Alian District. The idea was to take it steady and enjoy the day. The route Google gave me took me down some farming roads onto PH19a avoiding Alian. It was all well and good taking a shorter route but I must have wasted 5 minutes on my phone for the sake of what I found out to be a saving of 0.5km or 90 seconds!

The next turning Yingyuan Road wasn’t signposted either and the next few kilometres were also tricky to follow. The road was a bit bumpy and I eventually came to a T Junction with Shanxi Road. A left then a right and suddenly came to a steep uphill climb. I lasted about half of it before pushing a little then getting back on. Looking through the trees the view was good and Agongdian wasn’t far away.

Agongdian was closer than expected, Agongdian was at the bottom of a winding descent and 1 hour 15 after leaving the restaurant I’d arrived at my first ‘stop’ for the day.

The cycle path around was said to be 6.6km and even at 9:30am it was quite busy. Most of the people around were on foot with 4 tour buses in the car park. The fog had lifted and it was a really beautiful, tranquil place to be… Oh no, oh no no no! It was!

Polluting the air and piercing the solitude was loud music. Whenever you are somewhere peaceful in Taiwan you never seem to be far from traditional music. It’s just one of those personal grievances, things that get under my skin but before I begin to rant I shall carry on…

My actual concern was a lack of suncream, it was already quite hot and being foolish, thinking it wouldn’t be too hot, I hadn’t brought any, this would be a concern through the rest of the day…

The path was quite narrow, mainly on the flat with a few short climbs. It was more beautiful than expected and it was a rare chance to ride safely without fear in a gorgeous location.

It was a lovely place to amble along and not care about speed, time or anything else. If loosened my legs up a bit and by now having finished, it was 1020. It was time to leave and go and find the Wushanding Mud Volcanoes of Yanchao District.

I made it into the center of Yanchao but was no sooner was I there, I was on Zhonghua Road on the road to Jinshan. This bumpy country road went up and down, mainly ascending as it approached Jinshan Elementary School.

At the school signs pointed towards Jiguanshan, others to Xinyangnu Lake and the mud volcanoes. Signs were in English and Chinese, but either way, it was a right at the school and down, then quickly up to a temple. At the temple the road turned to a one-lane rutted track and all the signs were now in Chinese. There were more ups than downs as I ascended up through the badlands of Yanchao towards the mud volcanoes.

Some of the scenery was spectacular and for the first time, I was actually on in the bike, seeing the badlands for myself. Not knowing the road I took things steady, with missed opportunities to gain momentum as the road was too rough and curvy.

I got off and pushed in places but the last section was quite easy. 45 mins and 8.3km after leaving Agongdian I was parking up at the mud volcanoes ready to see a geological oddity. I hadn’t seen any photos before so I was genuinely intrigued, I hadn’t detoured for nothing!

I signed in as required, having to leave my name, address, passport number and date of birth but admission was free. Down the short path, I found two mud volcanoes several metres high, one of which looked dormant and the other was making bubbling noises.

Just to the right, through some trees was the main attraction. It looks modest but it was cool to watch. I can’t upload it here, but this small mud volcano was busy making plopping sounds every few seconds. 

I got a few last photos and exited pondering which way to head back. As far as I was concerned, I didn’t want to head back over the steep hill just north of Agongdian and back the way I came, but didn’t want to go back to Yanchao the same way either. What I love about cycling is that freedom to on a whim, change plans and head wherever you please. 

The decision was made to carry on along the road, down the hill and through the grounds of one of Kaohsiung’s universities. It brought me on Highway 22. The road down to Highway 22  was absolute bliss compared to the road up from Jinshan, it was a lot smoother and PH22 was even better, a fast, smooth road much like PH19 north of Tainan.

I turned along Dacheng Road, a winding but flat backroad back towards Yanchao. I took a right at the next crossroads back into Yanchao. At Yanchao I had an Americano in 7 Eleven as I came to my next decision, which way do I head back?

Option 1: Over the hill and back up the 39, the same way I came – 30km

Option 2: Take back roads to avoid the steep climb, then back via PH19A and the 39 – 32km

Option 3: Along the 186 to Gangshan then go back up PH1 to Tainan – 32km

Option 4: Take the 186 to Yong-an, then up PH17 to Hunei – 36km.

Go on? Which way do you think I went? Well, of course, after a 15-minute coffee break I still had absolutely no idea. Deep down however I knew I would be taking the long route, fearing sunburn I wrapped my towel around my neck and ears and began the 36km ride back to Tainan.

County Highway 186 took me through over PH1 in Gangshan and over to the coast. I took a right in Yong-an and I was finally headed north for the final 21km. PH17 was quiet and despite the northerly wind, it was good cycling weather. I stopped off for a bicycle drink about halfway back an hour after leaving Yanchao’s 7 Eleven.

The 10-minute rest was just what I needed as I dramatically increased my pace on the last 15km. Those final 15 kilometres were knocked off in about 40 minutes and 2 hours exactly after leaving Yanchao I was back home.

Overall, a solid ride. I didn’t cramp up, I hydrated well and gave myself a chance by eating. It was about 92km covered with a few mistakes along the way. The scenery was great, the riding conditions were ideal and there’s no doubt that I’ll be cycling in Kaohsiung again soon.

One more ride this weekend before my trip to the USA.

Tom.