Back in early December I gave myself a 16th January deadline to train up and cycle 100km in a day. At the time I was unfit and in many ways, still am but felt I needed a goal, something to aim for. I started off doing 30 minute and 1 hour rides in midweek followed by a long ride at the weekend, I quickly built up my stamina and myself used to the bike. Needless to say, I did this on 15th December but there was something else I wanted to do even more…

When I started riding I went on Google Maps and played with it, looking at the roads, making possible routes between 50 and 100km long. One of these stood out and became the secret goal, ride to Cijin Island in Kaohsiung. I’d been to Cijin twice, and at 92km round-trip was both a challenge and somewhere fun to go. It had to be done before my trip to the USA too.

Over the last few weeks I’ve really had fun riding on new roads, there’s been a feeling of immense freedom and it’s an inspiration in itself. A lot of the time I’ve ditched music in favour of simply taking pleasure out of cycling. It’s become a big part of my life and Sunday is simply called cycling day…

I’d had an interesting Saturday which I’ve already blogged about but unfortunately my sleeping pattern relapsed and I went to sleep gone 4am again. This 7am alarm was not a pleasant one but I knew I’d regret not moving, and just like last Sunday had a coffee and was out the door around 7:35 WITH suncream.

The route was simple, get onto PH1 on Datong Road and in Hunei join PH17 until I reached Zuoying. At Zuoying things would be complicated by where not knowing exactly I wanted to stop off. The opening 9km down to Hunei were simple reaching 42kmh with ease thanks to a tailwind, I crossed the Erren River into Kaohsiung and joined the County Road 2-1 for the short 1.5km crossing on PH17a.

Heading down the 17 I chewed up kilometres thanks to a lack of traffic lights (me ignoring them!) and that wonderful tailwind. 2 minutes a km meant I was at Yong-an where I’d ridden through last Sunday in 44 minutes and was soon in Mitou where I’d planned to stop off.

When looking at Google Maps weeks ago I came across a place called Leidishan Nature Park, a hiking area in Mitou and was keen to check it out. I missed the turn off despite knowing where it was but after a small diversion, had pulled up outside a quiet Leidishan Nature Park at 8:35.

I had done my research but I didn’t know how well used it was, nor if there was a dog problem. Neither of these things were an issue with a large group coming the opposite way as I headed uphill to the entrance.

There were map boards although these were in Chinese so I followed the main path to a small mud volcano and then to ‘observation station’ expecting a view west which turned out to be absolutely outstanding…

Mitou village, Nanjiao Port and the Mitou fish farms were visible and I didn’t think it was that high up, but clearly I was wrong. The path continued down some wooden steps and despite not knowing where it went, shrugged my shoulders and carried on.

I’d seen badlands last weekend in Yanchao and got a treat with this walk, the path cut through them and it was beautiful. The broadwalk turned to trail in places and I found I was on the path around Leidishan so had picked the right decision to continue.

The walk ended with a trip across a suspension bridge and it had been a worthwhile 50 minute stop off. Clearly a place visited by locals, Leidishan really ought to be better publicised.

Back on the bike and a few kilometres later I was in Kaohsiung’s urban sprawl passing through Ziguan then the ever busier Qiaotou, Nanzi where the road split. I continued down the main road into Zuoying past the National Stadium and then followed my nose to the north end of Kaohsiung’s Lotus Lake.

Like the attractions talked about in Saturday’s post I’d walked up one side of the lake 4 years ago on the way to watch some football, you see that post here. I had no idea what there was to see and after a bit of dithering found myself inside the Confucius Temple. Unlike Tainan’s Confucius Temple this was one was NOT under reconstruction and the style felt very northern Chinese, more like what you’d associate with Beijing than southern Taiwan.

There was information about Confucius and the history of Confucianism in Taiwan down in the rooms on the east side of the temple. It felt remarkably grand and imposing and I learnt something too which was added bonus!

Unlike the west side of the lake with its pagodas and temples the east was quieter with a shaded bike path down it’s length. I got occasional photos before deciding to push on and get the last 9km done.

I passed by the old Fongshan walls but they were to my utter disappointment closed off due to renovation. I would have stopped off, but they’ll be a next time when the repairs are all done.

Getting to Gushan ferry terminal seemed fairly simple until I messed up barely 1km away as I ended up on the wrong side of the water! This issue was solved by cycling over the pedestrian only bridge to the terminal…

I’d expected the queues for the ferry to be long, but no, even at 11am on a lovely winter’s day with the mercury hitting 22C it was really quiet! I practically walked onto the ferry having paid NT$40 (pedestrians pay $30) and was on the other side a few minutes later.

I had three priorities on Cijin: 1) Check out tourist attractions I hadn’t seen before, 2) Seafood, 3) Coconut. On my previous visits I’d never strayed too far from the terminal and beach area as it had always been warm, and I’d been going to baseball after. Taking my time was order of the day.

I walked up the main street passing seafood stalls and got up to the beach area for a browse. A lot, I’d say at least 6 or 7 sold the same kind of thing which was fried seafood. I had to stop at one and it was a little old lady’s stall. Knowing Chinese was unnecessary as there was a basket and tongues for you to help yourself, but no prices! She fried it all off and it came to NT$130, I knew I’d got shrimp, oysters but I couldn’t read the other Chinese!

I got a coconut for NT$60 and sat on a bench by the beach to enjoy a well deserved break.

I cycled on the bike path as far as the rainbow church which was a small structure designed to be a church. It seemed to be a huge hit with local couples, but to me yet another mediocre ‘sight’, not something you go out your way to see. Further down there was a giant shell and another piece of art, about 500m down the path I called it quits…

By this time it was about 12:20 and I’d simply had enough. I got the ferry back to Gushan and wondered what else I could see on the return journey. The ‘4 years ago’ line can be trotted out again as Takao Railway Museum and Pier 2 Art Center was right on the route, and I’d been in June 2015 on a dull day.

For me, after I’ve been for the first time I never seem to enjoy returning to tourist attractions or places with few exceptions. Places don’t have the same magic the second time.

’25 minutes later and I made my way back towards Lotus Lake but it quicker became apparent it would NOT be an easy ride back north. The wind from that direction was horrendous even on the city streets of Kaohsiung.

Half an hour later I was at the south end of the lake and walked up Little Guishan for a view of the lake from above. I couldn’t remember ascending the stairs to it in 2015 and my photos draw a blank. The view was superb but I wasn’t hanging around, a few photos of the pagodas and other sights quickly followed.

I sat down outside a 7 Eleven for 10 minutes as I contemplated the 36km back to Tainan. On the face of it I was brash as I knew I had to get back, there was no, get on a train and give up, I was cycling back. Deep down I knew I was probably going to suffer.

The first 9km back through Zuoying, Nanzi, Qiaotou weren’t too bad as the urban sprawl took my mind off things. Once I hit Ziguan cramp started to set in and the wind got worse. Cycling full on into a headwind with cramp isn’t the most joyous activity especially when I realised I was starting to go uphill.

The cycle through the rural districts of Ziguan, Mitou and then Yong-an was painful. I looked on my phone and targeted the 7 Eleven in Luzhu for a break. By the time I reached Luzhu I knew I’d pushed it too much, I was still hitting 20-24kmh even after 88km and I ought to have stopped earlier.

I was only 15km from home and after that 10 minute break was determined to get the ride finished ASAP. I got through Hunei, back over the Erren into Tainan and was desperate for the end. Finally at 4:07 I pulled into PX Mart not far from home and that was it, the ride was done.

I did a little shopping and had intended to cook but instead got back on the bike to head to No Q Pizza. A few slices and a few beers were called for and it began to sink in, that I’d achieved what I’d set out to 7 weeks. I’d done my 100km (this a second one) and I’d gone to Cijin Island by bicycle. It felt awesome and I quickly forgot about my legs, the cramp I’d had.

So that is it, no more Cycling with Tom posts for a month. Expect a huge series of reports from my trip to the USA, I make the 14 hour 50 minute flight to New York City on Thursday evening.

Tom

Just 8km south-west of where I’m sitting is the Erren River (二仁溪) that separates Tainan City and Kaohsiung City yet it’s a boundary I’ve rarely crossed, preferring to stick north of the Erren and on familiar ground. Sunday’s ride would not just take me over it, but well beyond and into uncharted territory for me and my bike.

The year started with a Wednesday night, New Years Day ride over to the coast then up to Qigu, across to Jiali and back home. It was a mind-clearing exercise more than anything else and a time to reflect. Once my mind was suitably adjusted it became dull and I got bored, as with darkness you have no scenery to look at and I just wanted to get the ride finished. It was my 6th ride in 6 weeks over the Zengwen River and the plains north of Tainan City Centre heading towards Chiayi. The roads felt awfully familiar and I knew the weekend ride had to be somewhere else.

In the 4 years I’ve lived in Tainan I’ve probably crossed the Erren River on my bike about 6 times. The sticking point has always been PH 1 aka Provincial Highway 1 which almost certainly has to be used when riding south and it’s a horrible road.

My plan for Sunday was to do some advance research on scenic spots to the south, in Kaohsiung City, I mean the outer districts of the city and it’s satellite towns. I knew about Guanyinshan 36km south-east, Agongdian Reservoir south-east and Tianliao Moon World also south-east! I initially wanted to combine them but went ahead and asked around for information on Saturday. “Agongdian Reservoir has a cycle path around it” was piece of advice 1 and second “You can go to Wushanding Mud Volcanoes”, wait…what? A quick Google later and I soon had a route planned or so I thought…

A few hours later and I was still awake at 1am with something on my mind… ‘What does that 24-hour restaurant near the 7 Eleven serve?’. I was referring to a restaurant near to the junction with PH39 going out on the 182. Google Translate, fill in gaps in my Chinese knowledge, a few eureka moments and eventually I fall asleep gone 4am…

I needn’t have worried about missing my alarm, jumping out of bed before it went off at 7am and I set off about 7:35am on a foggy morning aiming for Agongdian Reservoir and the Wushanding Mud Volcanoes.

More bizarre than me getting out of bed enthusiastically at 7am on a Sunday was the concept of me eating breakfast. This has become a strange and unusual word, not usually in either my lexicon nor something that is a part of my everyday routine…

I always feel a bit awkward walking into a restaurant in Taiwan that has a fully Chinese but gradually that feeling is wearing off. I ordered 鱸魚粥 or sea bass porridge for those unable to read Chinese. It cost NT$85 (about £2) and it was delicious and absolutely full of seabass, a very good start to the day. Just the thing needed!

For those interested in the restaurant should Google 東品鮮魚湯仁德店.

I got going at 8:15am and headed down the 39 past the HSR, over the Erren and into Alian District. The idea was to take it steady and enjoy the day. The route Google gave me took me down some farming roads onto PH19a avoiding Alian. It was all well and good taking a shorter route but I must have wasted 5 minutes on my phone for the sake of what I found out to be a saving of 0.5km or 90 seconds!

The next turning Yingyuan Road wasn’t signposted either and the next few kilometres were also tricky to follow. The road was a bit bumpy and I eventually came to a T Junction with Shanxi Road. A left then a right and suddenly came to a steep uphill climb. I lasted about half of it before pushing a little then getting back on. Looking through the trees the view was good and Agongdian wasn’t far away.

Agongdian was closer than expected, Agongdian was at the bottom of a winding descent and 1 hour 15 after leaving the restaurant I’d arrived at my first ‘stop’ for the day.

The cycle path around was said to be 6.6km and even at 9:30am it was quite busy. Most of the people around were on foot with 4 tour buses in the car park. The fog had lifted and it was a really beautiful, tranquil place to be… Oh no, oh no no no! It was!

Polluting the air and piercing the solitude was loud music. Whenever you are somewhere peaceful in Taiwan you never seem to be far from traditional music. It’s just one of those personal grievances, things that get under my skin but before I begin to rant I shall carry on…

My actual concern was a lack of suncream, it was already quite hot and being foolish, thinking it wouldn’t be too hot, I hadn’t brought any, this would be a concern through the rest of the day…

The path was quite narrow, mainly on the flat with a few short climbs. It was more beautiful than expected and it was a rare chance to ride safely without fear in a gorgeous location.

It was a lovely place to amble along and not care about speed, time or anything else. If loosened my legs up a bit and by now having finished, it was 1020. It was time to leave and go and find the Wushanding Mud Volcanoes of Yanchao District.

I made it into the center of Yanchao but was no sooner was I there, I was on Zhonghua Road on the road to Jinshan. This bumpy country road went up and down, mainly ascending as it approached Jinshan Elementary School.

At the school signs pointed towards Jiguanshan, others to Xinyangnu Lake and the mud volcanoes. Signs were in English and Chinese, but either way, it was a right at the school and down, then quickly up to a temple. At the temple the road turned to a one-lane rutted track and all the signs were now in Chinese. There were more ups than downs as I ascended up through the badlands of Yanchao towards the mud volcanoes.

Some of the scenery was spectacular and for the first time, I was actually on in the bike, seeing the badlands for myself. Not knowing the road I took things steady, with missed opportunities to gain momentum as the road was too rough and curvy.

I got off and pushed in places but the last section was quite easy. 45 mins and 8.3km after leaving Agongdian I was parking up at the mud volcanoes ready to see a geological oddity. I hadn’t seen any photos before so I was genuinely intrigued, I hadn’t detoured for nothing!

I signed in as required, having to leave my name, address, passport number and date of birth but admission was free. Down the short path, I found two mud volcanoes several metres high, one of which looked dormant and the other was making bubbling noises.

Just to the right, through some trees was the main attraction. It looks modest but it was cool to watch. I can’t upload it here, but this small mud volcano was busy making plopping sounds every few seconds. 

I got a few last photos and exited pondering which way to head back. As far as I was concerned, I didn’t want to head back over the steep hill just north of Agongdian and back the way I came, but didn’t want to go back to Yanchao the same way either. What I love about cycling is that freedom to on a whim, change plans and head wherever you please. 

The decision was made to carry on along the road, down the hill and through the grounds of one of Kaohsiung’s universities. It brought me on Highway 22. The road down to Highway 22  was absolute bliss compared to the road up from Jinshan, it was a lot smoother and PH22 was even better, a fast, smooth road much like PH19 north of Tainan.

I turned along Dacheng Road, a winding but flat backroad back towards Yanchao. I took a right at the next crossroads back into Yanchao. At Yanchao I had an Americano in 7 Eleven as I came to my next decision, which way do I head back?

Option 1: Over the hill and back up the 39, the same way I came – 30km

Option 2: Take back roads to avoid the steep climb, then back via PH19A and the 39 – 32km

Option 3: Along the 186 to Gangshan then go back up PH1 to Tainan – 32km

Option 4: Take the 186 to Yong-an, then up PH17 to Hunei – 36km.

Go on? Which way do you think I went? Well, of course, after a 15-minute coffee break I still had absolutely no idea. Deep down however I knew I would be taking the long route, fearing sunburn I wrapped my towel around my neck and ears and began the 36km ride back to Tainan.

County Highway 186 took me through over PH1 in Gangshan and over to the coast. I took a right in Yong-an and I was finally headed north for the final 21km. PH17 was quiet and despite the northerly wind, it was good cycling weather. I stopped off for a bicycle drink about halfway back an hour after leaving Yanchao’s 7 Eleven.

The 10-minute rest was just what I needed as I dramatically increased my pace on the last 15km. Those final 15 kilometres were knocked off in about 40 minutes and 2 hours exactly after leaving Yanchao I was back home.

Overall, a solid ride. I didn’t cramp up, I hydrated well and gave myself a chance by eating. It was about 92km covered with a few mistakes along the way. The scenery was great, the riding conditions were ideal and there’s no doubt that I’ll be cycling in Kaohsiung again soon.

One more ride this weekend before my trip to the USA.

Tom.